Arrive in Tokyo pretty knackered from our flight but pleasantly surprised by the cheery lady at the JR (Japan Rail) office. This is where we exchange our “exchange order” for our “JR Pass” which gives us (virtually) unlimited travel in Japan.
The exchange pass is a complicated form with lots of handwriting on it (true to stereotype, the Japanese seem to like lots of form-filling and paperwork), whereas the actual JR Pass is a rather natty passport-sized thing with a stylised version of the famous Hokkusai painting on the front.
As an aside about the post-earthquake conditions, the impressions were as follows: some train lines are not running, and some escalators are switched off in a bid to save electricity, but otherwise everything seems pretty normal. Later on, in Tokyo and other cities, the impression is similar; some large neon signs and screens are switched off in a bit to save electricity. It seems that the Japanese are doing a bit of soul-searching over their consumption of electricity, even considering switching off drinks vending machines in the summer. I later learnt from the English translation of NHK News that an average drinks vending machines consumes as much as 50% of the power as one household!
We are given lots of maps and information and sent on our way. First impressions are that everything is very clean and organised. Also see a brand of chocolate milk with Pikachu on the front, and lots of vending machines, thus allowing me to tick off various stereotypical expectations.
Finally, we arrive at the hotel. Once the novelty toilet has been negotiated (the toilet seat is warmed and there are lots of buttons to press – later on I realise this is a pretty standard installation in most hotels), I have a little impromptu nap. Wake up thinking that the bed is being shaken by a mischievous Toby, but in fact it turns out to be an earthquake aftershock! This doesn’t come to much, and nothing falls over or breaks. Not a very worrying experience, a bit like being on a cross-channel ferry or a plane with turbulence. Clearly nowhere near as bad as a “real” earthquake.
We try to go out in the evening but it is tipping down with rain. Whilst this adds to the “Blade Runner” feeling pervading the area we are in (Shinjuku), it cuts short our night out. Have some noodles at some sort of chain restaurant near the (vast) station, and thankfully are given a menu with Korean, Chinese and English translations. Somehow we manage to avoid the very seedy come-ons of the various bar proprietors and call it a night.
